2023-03 PUP (Malware)

So here’s another update. I came across this recently at a client. They were saying their McAfee antivirus and Microsoft Office kept asking for renewal.

Please take note that at the bottom of each page is the text – “Powered by PC App Store” – in very small print. If you’re not aware of this, you may end up giving your card information to some unscrupulous third party. They also give you no means of closing the nag screen.

For those who can – technically apt or can follow instructions – reboot the system in SAFE MODE and delete the folder with all related files.

It will be found under your user profile folder – most likely C:\Users\MyUserProfile\PCAppStore.

Replace the “MyUserProfile” with your username – or just browse to C:\Users\ and find your profile. Delete the PCAppStore folder once there in SAFE MODE – then reboot normally.

An issue I’ve seen with Windows 11 is the failure to reboot normally. If you come across this – follow these instructions.

SAFE MODE is typically characterized by the words “SAFE MODE” being seen in the four corners of the screen.

Click on the start menu and type the word “MSCONFIG” without quotes.

Click OPEN or click on SYSTEM CONFIGURATION. You should then have the available options seen below. Just ensure it’s set to NORMAL STARTUP and you should be fine. Reboot after the settings look similar to below.

Once you reboot – the system should be back to normal. Check to verify that the malware is no longer loading.

PUP = Potentially Unwanted Program.

Malware = Any software with malicious intent.

There are various tools that can catch and clean malware, but there are times when new variations arrive that aren’t detected. Not immediately at least. Where this one is concerned – I’ve submitted the infected files to Microsoft and other AV vendors. The scans from Microsoft did not find anything. That makes this kind of malware even more dangerous. Most persons as well may not see the fine-print. As an end user, you’ll need to be aware of what you’re subscribed to or have paid for. When in doubt – have a tech check it out.

Computer Usage & Care 101 – In Jamaica

This is a direct branch off from my last post. I realized something with most small to medium businesses in Jamaica – there’s very little thought given to IT. Whether internal or external IT suggestions – most of it is glossed over until something happens. We’re more reactive than proactive.

To reduce the risks associated with owning tech in Jamaica – here’s some info to get things going.


Regardless of you being a home user or a business – you NEED power protection. JPS is not the most reliable power company, and they cannot guarantee clean power to you just by virtue of how things are.

A great example that was given to me by a friend was this – imagine that you’ve built a new home on a newly commissioned area that JPS has put in a brand new transformer. You’re getting the best and cleanest power off the grid in your area. But…5-10 miles down the road – nowhere near you – someone is running a business that does welding. The electrical noise generated on the line will affect your supply – believe it or not. Now imagine being a business and there are dozens of other buildings nearby with varying power requirements. How can JPS guarantee that YOU will get clean power?

While an ONLINE UPS would be best – the cost is very heavy per unit. The cheapest single unit costs around JMD$80,000 – meaning that’s what it would be for ONE PC. Quite expensive if you should outfit all your devices with an ONLINE UPS. So the next best thing is the LINE INTERACTIVE UPS – or SWITCHING UPS. These are the more common ones that make a “click” when they switch from JPS to battery and back. They provide good enough protection for your equipment – but as with most things, there are some brands that work better than others.

FORZA has become very popular in Jamaica – but it’s not a brand that I’d recommend for their UPSes at current. Their surge strips and other devices seem fine, but brands I’d recommend include:

  • APC
  • Liebert
  • PowerWare

If you can’t afford a UPS – at the very least – get a surge strip. And not one of the cheap ones from the supermarket – a good surge strip from APC – or even a Forza one. The surge strip will at least protect the system in the event of a high voltage surge.

If you’re in a place that has lots of outages – maybe a fridge guard would do better. At least those stay off until power has returned to a constant supply for 5 minutes – I think the timer varies with different models.


This is something that – surprisingly – isn’t taken as seriously as it should be. If you’ve followed the news, you’ll realize that lots of business locally have fallen victim to ransomware and other cyber attacks. Without even considering the darker side of computing, there’s the fact that devices may fail due to age or factory faults. With no proper backups available, a failed drive could grind business to a halt.

Speak with your IT personnel to discuss local and cloud backup solutions. You can do one or both depending on your needs and budget.


This is another sore point for most places. If the systems are working – “just keep swimming” as the statement goes (Finding Nemo reference). Excessive dirt buildup over time can lead to part failure. Static buildup due to the dirt, or having the dirt become “caked” into the circuitry may then cause breaks and failures – or cause failures after cleaning is done. That last one is funny – imagine dirt literally becoming a part of the circuitry and holding the pathways together – then you get it cleaned – then it fails because the circuit is now broken. Things like this actually happen – and it’s not the fault of the technician – unless THEY didn’t schedule your servicing.

Each environment is different, and some systems require more maintenance than others as a result. Typically, home and office systems should be good with 1-4 times per year. This depends on the environment primarily, as a system elevated (on a desk) will have less dirt than one on the ground – typically. And a system in an AC environment will have less than one that’s not in an AC room – typically.

Laptops will usually require less maintenance – again – based on the environment. One that is used by a person that has it on a bed, couch and any kind of fabric surface will find that it’s more dirty than one that’s always kept on a desk, table or flat surface. Even if it’s used in a bed or couch, a laptop that’s kept on a book or cooling pad will have less dirt than one placed directly on the fabric surface.

With laptops – again – there are variables. Some have intake from the back, the bottom (typically) or the top – right through the keyboard keys.


This is another topic that I can’t get into much right now. It will depend on the business/home and how the staff/users utilize the resources. There are always best practices that should be followed, and each person should take the time to review their surroundings – work or home – and do their best to not place the equipment at risk.

Let’s give some examples.

  • Don’t click on links in emails that seem suspicious.
  • Don’t go to illegal websites.
  • Don’t click on pop-ups.
  • Even if you know the sender – should the email seem suspicious, call and validate the information with the sender. Their account could be compromised.


Check with your IT person/s to verify what needs to be done. Have security reviewed by your IT person/s and take steps to secure your systems. Use password managers. Don’t randomly click yes/allow unless you’re SURE about what’s being run. Do what’s needed to stay safe.


The link below was found as one of the first Google results from a search I did.


Here’s a link from Norton – a well known antivirus vendor.


You can check for other similar links from the results below.

Google – Free IT Security Best Practices

The Best Computer & PC-101 (ish)

So recently I had a discussion with a friend in the IT field which got a bit heated. I realized that while we were saying the same thing – the way in which we’d analyze and question the client was different. So I got to thinking – how could I make this easier for persons to get into? Let’s make an attempt.


As usual – this is my own POV. If you disagree we can discuss. Etc. Etc.

I’m also going to try and simplify this to keep it somewhat short. So let’s go into it.


The best computer/laptop/tablet/phone/car/etc – is the one that suits your needs. Now I added “car” into that for a reason that we’ll get into for comparison.

All cars do exactly the same thing. They get you from point A to point B. Some are more comfortable than others. Some you may have a certain experience with that gives you a bias towards one versus another. As an example – some persons swear by European vehicles, some rather Japanese and others rather the “American Muscle” types. But whatever the reason – regardless of how fast or slow – they do the job.

A computer/laptop is very similar. It will get the job done regardless of specs, but some will do it faster than others. With that bit out of the way. Let’s talk money.


This is usually the deciding factor. Regardless of all the bells and whistles – the price will usually be the deciding factor. If the system is a desktop then the ability to upgrade individual parts will be more likely. Portable devices (laptop/tablet/phone) don’t usually have that luxury – or the parts that CAN be upgraded/changed would be less. So let’s go into the next question.


The primary area my friend and I got stuck on. The platform. I ask this for familiarity and the possibility that a user/client may already have software within the platform that they want to continue using. For example – a Windows user may have purchased Sony Vegas for video editing while a Mac user may have purchased an Adobe Premiere license. Persons with licenses like Adobe Creative Cloud may be able to move between Mac and Windows platforms, but platform familiarity will also reduce the learning curve to get tasks done. Which brings me to the next point.


This is related to the first point – your needs. If you’re going to be gaming then it’s more recommended to use Windows. This isn’t to say you can’t game on Mac or Linux – but it’s easier to get things set up on Windows. If you’re doing emulation, the new Mac M2 does an excellent job – far better than equivalent priced PC hardware.

This section isn’t one that can be painted with a broad brush – there’s too many variables. But your comfort level with the platform, the upgrade path and budget will all play a part in your decision.

FAMILIARITY (Again – Somewhat)

When asked about a recommendation, I may say (for example) that you should buy the HP EliteBook. Your reply may then be that you hate HP based on your experience. I could then suggest Lenovo – and your reply may be that you don’t want anything out of China. These variables may then cause certain questions to be raised based on the needs. So how can we (somewhat) summarize this?


  • What is your budget?
  • Do you have a platform preference?
  • Do you have software/licenses that you wish to keep?
  • If you do have licenses – are they platform specific?
  • Are you looking into moving to another platform?
  • Are you looking for a desktop (stationary) or a laptop (portability)?

There’s more to it – but I think that’ll do to get the ball rolling. In the mean time – as of today – 2023-02-17 – you can check out a few of these links below.

To make things easier. If you buy a gaming class device, or a business class device – whether it’s a laptop or desktop – then it will likely have better components and a longer warranty. If you want your desktop system built by a technician – that can be done as well. If you go the Mac route – bear in mind that there are various models. There will usually be a BASE MODEL that has very little to it – as well as a “flagship” model that has all the bells and whistles.

In the past – getting a Mac would be difficult where warranty and servicing is concerned, but ATL is an authorized dealer locally. This means that all of the services that you’d get overseas can be had right here.

Lastly – don’t expect a $200 computer/laptop to give you the performance of a $500 one. Unlike a car – the person driving it doesn’t improve the chances of a better result.


Starlink in Jamaica


I’d like to have persons somewhat familiarized with Starlink and what it does. Then we’ll get into some more details. A good video with information is linked below.

Basically – it’s a satellite internet service that is faster than the old ones. Dish had satellite internet, but due to how far those were, the latency was horrible. You had internet – but very slow.

Starlink uses low-orbit satellites to give you MUCH improved service over the other satellite internet providers.


With that out of the way – let’s get into some details that you may need to move forward.


The cost of the Starlink hardware (as of this writing – 2023-02-06) is JMD$60,500. It’s quite a lot, but considering a few things…it’s not that bad.

Your kit contains:

  • A wireless router. No LAN.
  • A power cable for the router.
  • A standing mount for the “dish”.
  • A “dish” – satellite receiver.
  • A really long cable attached to the “dish”.

That’s it. Nothing else. The main issue I had is no LAN – but we’ll get into that later. You can buy multiple addons from their site at https://shop.starlink.com/ if you so desire.

The reason it costs so much – aside from the general hardware cost – is the fact that this includes:

  • The hardware (listed above).
  • Shipping – using DHL.
  • CUSTOMS!!!!!
  • Delivery – again – DHL.

The fact that it includes customs makes it worth the price IMO. Especially considering that the cost in the USA is around USD$599 (USD$600 basically).


The shipping done by DHL in Jamaica is a bit tricky. If you’re in Kingston or some other location that has a street number, lot number, house number, etc…then you’ll get the item right at your door. Most of Jamaica doesn’t have this, so the item will most likely be delivered to the nearest DHL to your shipping address. So you’ll get a phone call once the item is available at the nearest DHL location – you go in – sign for it – go home.


I’m going to apologize for some of the low quality pictures you’ll see. But here we go.

The box is about 2ft by 1ft. You get the previously listed items.

The “dish” plus the stand. A really long cable. And the router. Above you’ll see the “dish” on the stand with the router on the right.

The box is very neatly packed. I recommend saving everything and making a note of how it was packaged. You can then put it back if you want to return it after the free trial period (30 days) is up.

Once you get everything out – you’ll see what I was talking about. The cable is really long – probably 75 feet or more. They have 75ft and 150ft cables on https://shop.starlink.com/ – so I assume you’re shipped with one of those.

There’s a card included that gives instructions. The assembly is straightforward and pretty easy. There is just one thing I need to stress though…

DO NOT TRY TO MOVE THE UNIT BY HAND. The “dish” has motors and will automatically attempt to align itself once it’s connected. Once you’re done it should be the items below connected by a cable – and a power cable from the router to JPS. I advise you to get a UPS to reduce your downtime and protect the equipment from surges/outages.

It’s best to have the device placed where there are no visible obstructions. I assume that based on our location, a clear view to North is advised. You can secure the device to your roof or elsewhere – I’ll get into some other details about the device later on.

You’ll realize in the above image that the “dish” is aligned North. I noticed this prior to securing the device to a roof. It always faced North. Since Jamaica is a small island in comparison to a large continent like the USA – I assume all “dishes” will be aligned to the same location.


Prior to setting up – it’s advised to get the Starlink app from the related store – Apple or Android.

You should already have a login to the Starlink website – use that when signing into the app.

Once you have everything up and running – you’ll see a network called STARLINK that is open. Connect to it and go through the setup in the app. In my case – the device may have been used previously and not reset properly. The person obviously didn’t like the unit or company. My network was called “STINKY”.

Everything prompts you on how to proceed. Set up the wireless network and leave the system to do what it needs to do.

It’ll take a while for everything to be done – 15 minutes to 30 minutes – but it’s pretty straightforward as I said. Here are some other images and information to give you some ideas beforehand.

As stated – the device needs a clear view of the sky. It’ll align itself automatically once it’s on.

Once everything is done you’ll have internet available by wireless. As I said – really easy to set up and configure. But – let’s get into some other things.


While Jamaica is a small place – the device is location locked. You can’t take it from MoBay to Negril and expect it to work. You’ll probably get an error like below.

There’s also some information when you try to move the location – either online through the website or through the app. And I’ve got a tip for that.

Hit the option to UPDATE ADDRESS and ensure you have Google Maps handy. Find your address and get the coordinates. As an example – “18.502432073010848, -77.91474222411976” is the location for the airport in MoBay. The Starlink app location doesn’t support that many characters, so it may end up as something like “18.502432, -77.914742” instead. But just get it as close as possible. Once you put that in – give it another 15-30 minutes and it’ll come right up.

One issue with this may be the zooming in. You could be attempting to change the location and notice that the option is not available. You must zoom in as close as possible on the available map to get the location changed. Just bear in mind the coordinates from Google Maps – or use the website.


They offer portability to be able to move the device wherever you want. For an additional JMD$2,000 monthly. This was an issue from what I saw – because the Boat & RV version is not available in Jamaica. We only get the fixed address version so you’re a bit limited in what you can do. A workaround would be to use it at home and then – if you’re going elsewhere temporarily – take it and pay the extra JMD$2,000 so you’ll have internet wherever you are.


Another issue I had is the standard the device uses. We have basically 6 versions of wireless standards.

  1. A – Old original standard.
  2. B – Next available standard.
  3. G – Probably the most common standard with older devices.
  4. N – Not too old standard which has gained traction.
  5. AC – Pretty recent standard which isn’t available on all devices.
  6. AX – The latest standard.

WiFi6 or WiFi-6 is also Wireless AX. The latest and greatest. It’s a bit unfortunate that the device stops at AC (5) and didn’t go to AX (6) – but it’s still not bad.

For the more technical persons – let me put this here.

So it depends on a couple things. However – WiFi-6 is the latest but WiFi-5 is where the Starlink router stops – as of this post.


There is no network port available on the device. If you want that – you’ll have to buy the addon for it.


Now – they advertise 200Mbps for you to see, but what you get will vary.

The finalized speed test showed 130Mbps down with 19Mbps up. That’s FAR better than you can get on DSL locally, and especially in areas where there is no available internet – or poor signal (like Portland) this would be awesome.

What I found confusing is the upload speeds. Note that there are two separate test results above. The LEFT is from the phone to the speed test server in use. The RIGHT is from the “dish” to the satellite. You’ll notice it has awesome download link speeds – but the phone is much slower. Yet – for some reason – the upload on the phone side is higher. I assume this is part of the available bandwidth based on network saturation. It’s possible that more people going online will reduce the overall performance, but they are improving it constantly – so maybe things will be about the same?


Some persons complained about the latency being high, but I didn’t see that. Considering how the technology is, you’re getting great service for about JMD$1,000 more than what FLOW would charge for their HFC service. And you are less likely to have downtimes like FLOW would give.

For the more technical persons – here are two latency tests. Click to enlarge and view the results.

Overall – for a satellite service to average under 80ms during tests – that’s a win IMO.


It’s best to use the app to do everything. With the exception of the location aspect – the app is the way to go. With it you can change all the settings for the wireless along with power management settings for snow melting and such – which we don’t need in Jamaica. You can also “stow” the device from the app. This basically puts it back in position so you can package it for storage or shipping.


While Digicel and FLOW are the best available options for home internet, Starlink is a strong third contender. If you need a multi-WAN setup you can use Starlink as your failover.

If you’re in a location where HFC or fiber internet is not available from either FLOW or Digicel (FLOW has both based on availability and area – Digicel is fiber only) – then Starlink is the best option.

If you live in a remote location and want to be mostly off-grid – then Starlink is your best option.

Price is pretty good in comparison to the USD costs – the monthly charge is just JMD$1,000 more than what you’d pay to FLOW for current HFC packages – you probably won’t need an “expert” to do the install – and there is no contact. You can stop your service whenever and resume when you’re ready.

The only drawback is the initial cost for the hardware, but once you’ve gotten past that – you should have fairly reliable service.

The only thing I’ve not done so far is test it in a storm or on a really cloudy day – but I’ll update once that’s done.

Declining Available Tech in Jamaica – The Rise of IntComex

So this may not be as long as I’d originally intended due to having stuff to do.

FYI – all links open in a new tab.

The information provided – as usual – is simply my opinion. If any details are not factual you may send the correction and I’ll have it done/added.


The link above should take you to information about IntComex. They’re basically a franchise company like KFC or BK. There are multiple locations across the Caribbean and they provide lots of IT & computer supplies.

Originally when they came to Jamaica, I was attending NCU. The year I don’t recall. At that point – EVERYONE on campus doing IT had an account with them. I didn’t bother to open one because I could literally walk into the hallway and find someone who had an account. Considering that I had setup the first LAN and message board system in use on the dorms, it was easy to message the room and get stuff purchased as well.

Prices were better than everywhere else. This was also before the rise of the freight forwarding companies and commonplace Visa/Mastercard debit cards. Doing a direct purchase from IntComex would give you a rate close to what you’re seeing on Amazon – and less than what most computer stores locally would charge.

IntComex became the major supplier for just about everywhere. And that’s where things went South – with the beginning of the monopoly.

Campbell’s Office Supplies in Kingston were a dealer for Cooler Master – a decent brand for peripherals such as cases, power supplies and fans. Since you could get all your supplies at IntComex, Campbells came out of the PC dealership and focused on the office supplies around 2019. While you can get items special ordered, it will take 2 weeks to get it here – and most persons can just order on Amazon now.

Having pushed most other dealers and companies out of business, if you can’t get what you want at IntComex – you’re better off ordering it. The pricing model for IntComex started climbing shortly after grabbing the market. The prices are currently just around what it would cost for you to buy on Amazon/eBay – pay the freight forwarding company – and pay customs. I mean – that’s not too bad, right? Right? Well – it wouldn’t be if they didn’t suddenly reduce the inventory.

One of the major problems in Jamaica currently is power. JPS is the primary power (electricity) supplier and the power is…dirty to say the least. No fault of theirs and not everywhere. If you don’t have a good UPS and power supply (PSU) for your PC, you’ll end up paying much more over time for your ownership.


That link above will show some good power supplies. IntComex went from having EVGA as an option to only having XTech. You’ll note that XTech isn’t even on the list. None of the better brands like those listed below can be found in Jamaica.

  • Thermaltake
  • Cooler Master
  • EVGA
  • Corsair
  • Antec
  • Seasonic
  • Enermax
  • Corsair
  • OCZ

The above list isn’t comprehensive, but it shows what the options are. Cooler Master is on the list in the link multiple times – and it’s no longer available easily at Campbells. You’d ideally want at least an 80 plus bronze power supply – I’ve no seen that on XTech at any point.

Something you can do. Find someone – a store or otherwise – that has a good quality dead power supply. If they have a 500W – compare it with a 700W Xtech. I guarantee you that any smaller output PSU from one of the companies in the link above, will weigh twice or more than a 700W or higher XTech PSU.

Does the weight matter? Not really. But it shows the difference in the quality and number of components used. The use of the PSU here is just one of the areas. No good motherboards, RAM or CPUs are easily available anymore. Everything has to be purchased online. And the best part? If it costs more than USD$50 the customs will slap you with their fees. This is retarded considering that the duty-free amount when you physically travel is USD$500 last I checked. Especially for IT parts – they should allow for a greater threshold.

I think I’ll leave that there where it is. There’s not much else to say. Where IntComex is concerned – the options are horrible – the pricing is no longer as pocket-friendly as it was – oh! I forgot! They’ve now locked things so you have to meet a certain purchase criteria before you can get membership. So if you’re not a business and moving a certain volume – you can’t buy from them. Neat huh?

My recommendation is to find a tech or friend that is in tech. Pay something to have them locate what you need online if it’s a full build – or just ask for a recommendation if it’s a single part. Get a good UPS – not FORZA – and protect your investment as much as possible.

Links below will show why getting an 80 plus bronze or higher PSU is recommended.

Basically. An 80 plus PSU is guaranteed by the manufacturer to work properly even on 80% load. Most cheap PSUs fail after 50%-70% load (like XTech) and some fail even lower. You can’t use an XTech to run a gaming or graphics/video editing system. While it may work for a time, it will likely damage your devices as the power will be fluctuating and not stable. Add that to JPS and you have a recipe for a fire.

That’s it now. I’m out. Let that sink in for a bit.

End User Faults

So this last part is an addition on 2023-01-22 @ 3:55PM. I entirely forgot about the end user issues. That’s part of the reason why IntComex has moved to where it is now. Most users simply buy the cheapest option. Never mind what the tech may recommend – you can get a PSU for less. Choice between an i7 and i3? Maybe they’ll pick the Celeron. It works right? So the company has moved to the cheapest option. They’re about moving products – whatever sells. Never mind that THEY are the ones who shaped the markets to what it is now.

I’d like to point to this link below.


That’s an 80 plus white Thermaltake PSU. Cost on Amazon is around USD$40 which is about JMD$6,280. Considering that IntComex gets the items at a really low price – and can manage to sell them back with markup/profit at less than that – they could provide better PSUs to the local market. At least give the option.

Prices are not shown due to privacy issues – but the end cost of those power supplies would be about JMD$4,710 – with markup that’s going to be about JMD$6,200 in a store.

Firstly – they can sell it for less based on their suppliers. Secondly – they can get better quality ones and still sell them at a reasonable price. And it’s still more expensive here than elsewhere. Check this out.



The link above is to one of the dealers linked to from the XTech website. I had to search through to find one that actually had PSUs available. Most had other products – but no PSUs. Keyboards. Mice. Headsets. No PSUs. And when I do finally find it – it’s still like JMD$1,000 cheaper at the PUBLIC online store. That says IntComex could still do better. Feel free to do your own research on it.

Cheaper isn’t always better. Some of the available products are really just there as a “stop gap” until you get the right things. But with what’s available now in Jamaica – there’s hardly any “right” thing.

Free Market Pricing

One of the issues with a free/capitalist market is the available pricing. The government (customs) is a major factor, but I’ll show how this works with another sector that persons can relate to. Cars.

Needed what’s called a “crank angle sensor” for my vehicle at the time. Local price? JMD$25,000 new – genuine. Want to know how much I paid for it? Genuine. Online purchase. Lemme show you what it was for that vehicle.


It was 2015 and I then paid USD$7.48 which was then JMD$932.41 and would now be about JMD1,174.36. That’s just a tad cheaper than the local price right? And I mean – it’d have to be ordered from the supplier because they didn’t have it immediately available.


Do your research. Shop around. You want something that works? Buy what’s here. You want something GOOD? Get it online. Pay the extra. Protect it as best as you can using a UPS from APC, Liebert or PowerWare. Don’t use Forza. Go solar if you can.

IntComex no longer makes sense unless it’s an item that you need and can’t wait for it to be shipped. The ONLY reason to buy from them is for the very limited warranty. Even hard drives you’re only getting like 1 year or less – most stores give you 30-90 days. Want to know what the warranty is like overseas from the manufacturers?


I’ll close on that.

2022-11-19 – Remote Support Update (Finalized?)

So it’s been a while – as usual – but I only post when there’s some update NEEDED. And now it’s needed. The title has a question mark because I have no idea what will happen in the future. I was using TeamViewer – moved to ConnectWise – moved to AnyDesk – and now I’m mostly finalized on Remote Utilities.

I’ve been using Remote Utilities from 2018, but due to it not being as popular – and some AVs flagging it – I was still mostly on TeamViewer. I’ll put links at the bottom of this for you to read the previous information if you need to – let’s get right into how you’ll receive remote support from me.

For details on why the move and such – see the Links & Info at the bottom of the page.


Remote Utilities
MAC Support – TeamViewer
MAC Support – AnyDesk
Links & Info

Remote Utilities

Please note that at this time Remote Utilities only supports WINDOWS. If you have a MAC, please use the information below for TeamViewer.

First you should head to the main site. The REMOTE ASSISTANCE link is below.


Once you’re there, select the RUN ONLY AGENT. It’s the first option.

From there it should download a file. Locate and run it.

You will likely receive a UAC prompt to run the file. Click YES.

You will then receive an ID and password on a small screen. Provide that information to me. Once done I’ll be able to connect.

This does not install anything on your computer. It is a one-time run that allows me to connect. If you’d like to get the files directly from the original site – simply go here:


Go to FREE DOWNLOAD – then select the option for the AGENT.

MAC Support

Unfortunately, Remote Utilities does not have a MAC version at this time. You’ll need to use TeamViewer (preferred) or AnyDesk.

MAC – TeamViewer

Go to the REMOTE SUPPORT section of the main website.


Scroll down until you see TEAMVIEWER 11 QS.

Click on the writing or the icon above it. This will take you to the official TeamViewer download page for my custom version.

Depending on your connection speed it may take some time to complete.

Run the file once it’s done.

If you get the error below – go to SHOW IN FINDER.

Hold the CONTROL button and click on the file. Then go to OPEN.

This will add the file to your security exceptions. You can then open it normally going forward. Simply hit OPEN thereafter.

This will run the program and provide the ID/Password that’s needed for me to connect.

That is all that’s needed for MAC. If by some chance we can’t get connected this way, then we’ll have to resort to AnyDesk. I’ll link that information below.

Here I’ll be placing information regarding remote support in general. First up however, will be the information regarding AnyDesk. This may be needed for support. It has information from an older version – and older version of their website – but the concept still applies.

AnyDesk – Windows & Mac

Now. I do have a subscription to AnyDesk (which I won’t be renewing) but the reason is linked below.

Moving From AnyDesk

Remote Software Info

The reason I use Remote Utilities and not the others is due to licensing. There’s also the fact that TeamViewer used forced obsolescence to move persons to the new version. While I agree that

Moving FROM AnyDesk

Yes – you saw right. After some time of “grabbing the market” – AnyDesk has now moved to a position similar to TeamViewer. At least TeamViewer started with perpetual licenses – which I still have one for an older version. What this means for ME personally is my primary tool will be Remote Utilities, and persons on Mac will have to use TeamViewer. I’ll post information and instructions later on.

Hosting Move – Update 2022-10-31

Hi everyone. As you saw in the last post, I had to move providers due to issues with my invoice and ticket systems. I thought everything was working, but there was another problem that was no fault of the new provider – a technical issue that required additional manual updating. This was completed at 6:30PM today and systems should now be up.

The main site is not yet dealt with – having issues manually moving that.

For the more tech-savvy persons, here’s a general breakdown.

Invoice system (Invoice Ninja) was on V4 and was updated to V5. This was almost entirely done by the new provider, but there were some glitches that needed to be worked out. The hosting provider was AWESOME with getting it resolved.

Ticket system (OSTicket) was migrated by the provider and everything was fine. Update done to latest version (1.17) but there’s a bug that was found a few days ago with the mail system. Had to update to 1.17.x to resolve that – but it took some testing to verify that the system was actually not working and then further checks to find the workaround. Other option would have been a downgrade.

Wiki still needs some work – quite a bit actually – but at least I managed to get that part working.

There are other sections of the site that still need work, but I should be able to move forward from here. Hopefully the ticket/invoice updates will be done more frequently now that the system is up.

When will the main site be sorted out? Good question. I’ve not done HTML for a LOOOOONG time – may have to pay someone to get it done if friends that do it aren’t able to help. Will see how it goes.

Hosting Move

So I’m in the process of moving hosting providers. Costs a bit more – but peace of mind. Old hosting provider (Contabo) suddenly stopped supporting Invoice Ninja – the main thing I use for invoicing. And some things just don’t seem to work as well.

The new hosting provider – GlowHost – is absolutely awesome for web hosting. The site loads faster due to it being closer servers – the customer service (ticket system) gives FAST responses. The tech support is REALLY helpful and they helped with migration at no extra cost – even fixing my issues with Invoice Ninja.

So as it stands – if you want a VPS – Contabo. If you want hosting that likely supports the tools you want? GlowHost.

Getting Remote Support

If you’re looking for remote support from me, you just need to download and run one of these available tools. Firstly – follow the link below.



Depending on your browser or settings, you may get an error when you try to open the first link. That may happen if you’re running an older OS (Windows 7) and your certificates are not up to date.

You’ll get that page above which has a number of different tools as you can see. For primary support, please go to the highlighted REMOTE UTILITIES.

Once that page loads there are again a number of options. Depending on what your needs are we will use either #1 highlighted in red, or #2 highlighted in blue.

The first option is for persons that need immediate support and do not want unattended access. While it does ask for elevated privileges, you can bypass this if you do not have administrative rights to your system.

The second option is for persons that will be using support on a regular basis. This installs the host which will allow me to connect whenever you call/message for remote assistance.

Other Platforms

If you happen to need support on Mac then please follow the instructions for AnyDesk in the link below.


Remote Utilities currently does not support Mac, so I have no choice but to use that for now.

You may also use TeamViewer 11 if you have access to that.

In Closing

As stated in the previous post, I’m moving fully to Remote Utilities because clients (in Jamaica) don’t want to support the subscription model. Primarily that. I do have a perpetual license for TeamViewer 11 and can use that if needs be. AnyDesk has a free option which works for most one-off support if needed. Contact me beforehand so we can arrange the remote support and discuss which tool is best to be used.